Many home cooks make quick, no-cook freezer jams, but these often miss the rich flavor of cooked jams. Cooking brings out a deeper flavor as the water evaporates, allowing the fruit’s natural sweetness to concentrate.

There are two main ways to make jam: using pectin or slow simmering. Pectin sets the jam quickly but requires precise sugar amounts, resulting in a weaker taste. Slow simmering, however, allows the natural sugars to caramelize, creating a richer, more intense flavor. I found this difference so incredible that I stopped using pectin altogether.

For extra depth, I cook my jam slightly beyond the ‘set point’ for more caramelization. If it thickens too much, I add a touch of water and continue until the consistency is just right. To check readiness, I use a thermometer until it reads 220°F (104°C) or test a dab on a cold plate (in the freezer). Once the jam is perfect, I pour it into sterile jars.

Raspberry Jam
6 cups (1 lb. 11 oz.) raspberries
4 cups sugar
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp grated orange zest
Instructions
Combine berries and sugar in a heavy pot. Bring to a boil, then cook until it begins to thicken.
Lower heat and simmer for about an hour, stirring often.
When it starts sticking slightly to the pot, add a bit of water if too thick, and cook to 220°F (104°C).
Add lemon juice and orange zest, cook briefly, then test on a cold plate.
Pour into sterile jars, leaving 1/4 inch at the top. Wipe rims, seal, and label.
Makes about 4 cups.